How to Start a Craftsman Chainsaw

A Craftsman chainsaw can turn a pile of storm limbs into tidy firewood in a hurry. It can also turn a casual Saturday into a lesson in why safety gear exists. The difference usually begins before the engine ever fires. Starting the saw correctly means checking the chain, using the right fuel and oil, engaging the brake, and following the control sequence for your exact model.

This guide covers the typical starting process for gas Craftsman chainsaws, plus the basics for V20 cordless and corded models. Controls and fuel requirements vary by model and year, so treat your operator’s manual as the final boss. If it contradicts a general step here, the manual wins.

Safety note: Do not use a chainsaw indoors, from a ladder, in a tree, or around suspected live power lines. Do not cut storm-damaged, hung-up, split, or heavily tensioned trees unless you are trained for that work. Calling a qualified arborist is not quitting; it is excellent decision-making with all your limbs intact.

The Fast Answer: Starting a Gas Craftsman Chainsaw

For most gas-powered Craftsman chainsaws, place the saw on firm ground, engage the chain brake, switch ignition to On, prime it if it has a primer bulb, set the choke to full, and pull the starter until the engine briefly fires. Move the choke to half choke or run, pull again until it starts, let it warm for a short time, then squeeze and release the throttle to return the engine to idle.

That is the roadmap, but the checkpoints matter. Start a chainsaw on the ground or another firm support, not by “drop-starting” it in midair. A chainsaw is not a yo-yo, and it should never be treated like one.

Know Which Craftsman Chainsaw You Have

A gas Craftsman chainsaw has a fuel tank, bar-oil tank, starter rope, ignition switch, and usually a choke control and primer bulb. A V20 cordless chainsaw uses a battery, lockout, and trigger. A corded electric model uses a lockout and trigger but also requires a suitable outdoor extension cord. These machines share a bar and chain, not the same starting ritual.

Older Craftsman gas saws may use a separate fast-idle lock; some newer designs combine it with the choke lever. Your primer-bulb count, choke positions, and fuel-mix ratio also vary. Never copy a fuel ratio from a neighbor’s saw, an old internet post, or an uncle who calls every small engine “basically the same.”

Pre-Start Checklist: One Minute That Matters

Dress for the job

Wear safety glasses or a face shield, hearing protection, leather gloves, sturdy boots, close-fitting clothing, and chainsaw chaps or other cut-resistant leg protection. A hard hat is smart whenever there are overhead limbs. Avoid loose sleeves, dangling jewelry, and hoodie strings that could get caught.

Inspect the saw

On level ground, check the guide bar, chain, chain brake, throttle lockout, handles, bolts, and covers. With the saw off and gloves on, the chain should feel snug against the bar but still pull freely around it. It should not droop underneath the bar. A loose chain may come off; an overly tight chain can overheat and damage the bar.

Make sure the chain is sharp, the oil tank is full, and the bar has no obvious damage. Do not start a saw with cracked housing, a broken guard, a damaged cord, or a chain brake that will not work. “I’ll be careful” is not a replacement part.

Fill fuel and bar oil correctly

Gas Craftsman chainsaws need two separate fluids: correctly mixed two-cycle fuel for the engine and bar-and-chain oil for the chain. Use the exact gas-to-oil mix specified in your model’s manual. Do not use straight gasoline, automotive engine oil, or mystery fuel that has spent three birthdays in the shed.

Fill the separate bar-oil reservoir with bar-and-chain oil, not used motor oil. Fuel makes the engine run; bar oil keeps the chain and guide bar from destroying each other at high speed. Refuel outdoors with a cool engine, close the caps securely, wipe up spills, and move at least 10 feet from the fueling spot before starting.

Clear the starting area

Place the bar where it cannot touch wood, rocks, soil, or your shoes. Keep people, pets, and obstacles away. Look up for loose limbs and look down for slippery ground. A solid start needs a solid place to stand.

How to Start a Gas Craftsman Chainsaw: Cold-Start Steps

  1. Engage the chain brake. On a saw equipped with one, push the front hand guard forward. The chain should not move during starting.
  2. Set the saw on firm ground. Hold the front handle firmly with your left hand. Brace the rear handle using the foot or knee position shown in your manual. Keep the guide bar clear of everything.
  3. Set the ignition switch to On. It may be marked On/Stop, I/O, or Run/Stop.
  4. Prime it, if equipped. Slowly press the primer bulb the number of times your manual specifies. Several Craftsman manuals call for about eight presses, but your own model is the authority.
  5. Set full choke or full choke/fast idle. A cold engine needs a richer fuel mixture. Some saws automatically set fast idle when you move the choke.
  6. Pull the starter rope sharply. Pull straight and firmly. Do not yank the rope to its limit and do not let the handle snap back. Pull until the engine fires briefly or tries to start; many models call for no more than about five pulls at full choke.
  7. Move to half choke or run. This step is crucial. Continuing at full choke after the engine first fires can flood it.
  8. Pull again until the engine starts. Keep the saw braced on the ground and your body out of the bar’s path.
  9. Let it warm briefly, then release fast idle. After about 30 seconds, lightly squeeze and release the throttle as your manual directs. The engine should settle at idle, and the chain must remain motionless.
  10. Release the brake only when you are ready to cut. Keep both hands on the saw, maintain good footing, and begin only after checking the work area.

Warm Starts, Flooded Engines, and the “It Almost Started” Moment

A warm Craftsman gas chainsaw usually does not need full choke. Engage the brake, secure the saw, set the switch to On, use the run or warm-start position listed in your manual, and pull the rope until it starts. Then release fast idle as directed.

When the saw smells strongly of gasoline, has been pulled repeatedly on full choke, or will not start after it briefly fired, it may be flooded. Stop priming. Move the choke to off/run and use the warm-start or flooded-engine instructions in your manual. More fuel is not the cure for too much fuel; that is like fixing an overflowing sink with a second faucet.

Starting Craftsman V20 Cordless and Corded Chainsaws

V20 cordless models

Inspect the chain, oil level, guards, and trigger lockout first. Install a fully charged, undamaged battery only after you finish the inspection. With both hands on the proper handles, press the lockout and squeeze the trigger as your model manual directs. Remove the battery before adjusting tension, clearing debris, carrying the saw any distance, or servicing it.

Battery chainsaws are quieter than gas models, but quiet is not harmless. A charged battery can make the chain move almost instantly, so never rest a cordless saw where the trigger can be bumped.

Corded electric models

Inspect the power cord and plug before each use. Use an outdoor-rated, grounded extension cord of the correct wire gauge for the tool and cord length, and keep the connection dry. Arrange the cord so it cannot be cut, snagged, or pulled into the work area. With the saw held securely, plug it in, press the lockout, and squeeze the trigger according to the manual. Unplug it before every adjustment or cleaning task.

Why Your Craftsman Chainsaw Will Not Start

Start with the obvious: Is the ignition switch On? Is there fresh, correctly mixed fuel? Is the bar clear? Are you using the right choke position? Then check owner-service items listed in the manual, such as the air filter, spark plug, fuel filter, and fuel lines. Stale fuel, a fouled spark plug, blocked filter, or cracked fuel line can all produce hard starting.

If the engine starts but the chain moves at idle, stop using it. A saw should not creep forward while it is idling. If the starter rope will not pull, the chain is pinched, or the saw has a damaged brake or housing, do not force it into service. For a gas model, disconnect the spark-plug lead before maintenance; for electric models, remove the battery or unplug the tool. When basic checks do not solve the problem, take it to a qualified service technician.

Five Starting Mistakes to Avoid

  • Drop-starting: Start on the ground or a firm support, never in one hand.
  • Skipping the chain brake: Start with the brake engaged when your saw has one.
  • Using old fuel: Fresh, correctly mixed fuel beats twenty angry pulls on the rope.
  • Ignoring bar oil: A running engine does not prove the chain is lubricated.
  • Starting near the fuel can: Close the containers, move away, and then start.

Experience Notes: Lessons That Make Starting Easier

Fresh fuel is the first real troubleshooting tool. Many owners have a saw that worked perfectly last season but now will not do more than cough. The instinct is to pull harder, prime more, and invent a few new words. In practice, old fuel is often the real culprit. Two-stroke engines are picky about fuel quality. Mixing only the amount you expect to use soon, storing it correctly, and labeling the container with the date and ratio eliminates a surprising number of “my chainsaw is broken” moments.

Listen for the first fire. With a cold gas saw, the brief pop or cough after a few pulls is not a failure; it is a message. It tells you to move from full choke to half choke or run. Beginners often keep pulling at full choke because the engine did not fully start. That floods the engine and turns a nearly successful start into a longer break. Once you understand the first-fire cue, the sequence becomes logical: rich mixture, first ignition, less choke, running engine.

Good body position saves effort. Trying to start a saw while holding it off the ground feels awkward because it is awkward. The saw moves, the rope pull becomes crooked, and you are working twice as hard. When the chain brake is on, the saw is braced on level ground, and your hand and foot or knee are positioned as the manual shows, the machine stays still. The rope pulls straighter, control improves, and you are less likely to make a mistake before the job begins.

Chain tension keeps changing. A chain that felt perfect yesterday may not be perfect today. New chains stretch, warm chains expand, and long cutting sessions reveal small tension problems. Experienced users inspect the chain before starting and recheck it after use once it has cooled. The chain should be snug without binding. This habit helps prevent thrown chains, crooked cuts, and that alarming smell of hot metal asking for attention.

Battery power changes the ritual, not the responsibility. A Craftsman V20 chainsaw is wonderfully convenient for quick pruning and cleanup. There is no choke, fuel mix, or starter rope. There is also far less warning before the chain moves. Removing the battery for adjustments, keeping the bar oil full, and treating the trigger lockout as a safety feature rather than a challenge are habits that carry over from gas saws.

The best experience is knowing when to stop. A branch touching a utility line, a tree hanging in another tree, a split trunk, or a limb under heavy tension is not a beginner project. A chainsaw can be powerful and useful without being the correct answer to every tree problem. Good judgment is part of chainsaw skill, and it is the only skill that works before you pull the cord.

One final recurring lesson: preparation feels slow only until the first time it prevents a problem. The goal is not to fear the tool. It is to make each start so routine that safety happens without debate.

Conclusion

To start a Craftsman chainsaw safely, slow down before you speed up: inspect the saw, wear protective gear, use the proper fuel and bar oil, engage the brake, stabilize the saw on firm ground, and follow your model’s exact control sequence. Whether the saw is gas, cordless, or corded, a calm, consistent start prevents the most common mistakes before the chain starts moving. Take the extra minute. The woodpile will wait.

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